《忠告川廚》系列之學藝先修行

汪世容
2006年3月中旬，中國《川菜》雜誌期刊在成都的一次編輯會上，與《川菜》雜誌社社長就現代廚政管理作些探討,我隨興交談了關於烹飪與行業的方方面面，共同認識到中國烹飪，特別是川菜行業與廚政管理及廚藝技藝的發展，不只是個燒飯做菜的技術問題，而是包含從烹調生產到飲食消費過程的一門學問，既是科學的，又是藝術的，既是物質的，又是精神的，是我們的祖先為了生存，在改造客觀世界的過程中所創造的一項寬厚的文化，然而，現今的事廚者對之往往漫不經心坐享祖先在漫長的歷史長河中，通過實驗、實踐、篩選、優選所積澱的財富，卻視而不見，諱莫如深，在市場經濟尚未發展的過去猶可理解，時至今日不該再噤若寒蟬了，應該讓從業事廚者在奉獻美食美味的同時，更加強調自生的提高，做到既參與生產又享受到與之飲食的修生養性以健康地生產，工作、學習與生活。

說至此話，《川菜》雜志社社長付崗先生托囑要我為《川菜》期刊寫點東西，既然如此，我亦樂於從命，商定以《川菜》開個叫《忠告川廚》的小專欄，千字文，有感而發信筆寫開去，一看到這個標題猛然間會讓人感覺“驚詫”怎麼了？ 《忠告川廚》川廚招誰惹誰了？怎麼又有人沒事咬舌根幹啥？還是自以為是又興妖作怪，川廚現在不是大喊要給地球人做飯嗎？其實不盡其然，縱觀烹壇內外忠告之言有之，只是令如今一些“大師、名師們不以為然吧了。”如今“忠告”有了，其非偶然而屬必然，廚界人士知曉，入廚學藝分如三類情況：一是把廚藝當做一門學問，自己學習樂於把所學之技表現在當爐烹飪並與至愛親朋分享之中故反复推敲，至誠至理集於心理，那是一種境界，把烹飪當成了一種享受，此類無外乎流芳百世的文人墨客，風流儒雅之士了，像中國幾大名著的作者，能把世間百餚包羅萬象的一一點綴於段落之間，可見“食人間百味寫天下文章”之大成了，把華夏千古之精隨賦予進了厚重的靈魂裡面了，另一類卻稱得上學得一技之長，養家糊口，故稱事廚者們，他們入名師做門徒，幹自己的苦力，揚師輩的名望，藉此提升自身的平面，此為藉船制漁，再有一類則是與廚界不粘邊的了，那些市井富閒人員，以糊口為生計，以為廚師並不需要太多的學問與技能，憑藉膽量居然也敢把不潔之物冠予美食之稱，合盤奉上，故一時間“江湖”盛行於世，更甚者曰：“拜師從藝拉場面，師不如徒仍混行”，說白了就是用為師的名望，為自己撐門面也圖找個好差事。其藝其德可謂五花八門了，這樣也就從根本上隆低了川廚們賴以生存的市場含金量了，感受最深的還是川廚們自身的處境，與之相同場竟技的其它菜係比較缺少了統一規範的市場活力，先不講“天下事如烹小鮮”，那隻是純粹的一句話，打造川廚品牌形象振興廚藝先得覺醒廚德，既提陞技藝，更需要修行廚德，這是當務之急，有了市場的篩選，更需從基礎說起了，這就是做為事廚者們必不可少的廚行修行了，而真正的廚者不是只用語言而是更要用心用情去完成自己任何一次美麗的菜品描述的，近年來，行業內外談論飲食文化的越來越多了，還成立了各式各樣的研究會之類，當作一門學問研究了，對此，我深以為慰，猶憶三十年前，我尾隨作為一方名廚的父親，就廚於成都華陽郊外的一家農場工作，父親主廚我當下手，作為被那個年代改造的對象，父親經常被當作牛鬼蛇神來批鬥，其罪之一就是曾為某知名走資派做過私人廚事，而批鬥完了還要忍辱接受可以被改造希望較好的評論，去給造反派們做飯，那時父親經常撫著我的頭頂一再叮囑，幹什麼都行，就是別乾廚師這一行，然而，每次父親忍辱為其造反派們烹調出來的菜餚卻都是可圈可點，絲絲不苟，這倒讓我成年後多年都不得明白，這或許就是廚德吧，是以德報怨吧？再後來，我也的確想擺脫家傳技藝，干點別的，可是，我總也忘情不了廚行，更為其被人鄙視而不忿，那些稱廚師為下九流的人他們其實並不知道，下九流中什麼都有就是沒有廚師，而為什麼制出美食貢獻的人，卻總也被人睢不起呢？我有身受，深感惶感，從業後我曾許了個心願，我不僅要服務於廚行，更要為廚行的發展而揚眉吐氣，如引導我走上為之烹飪事業貢獻力量的父輩們努力工作，除了為事業的興旺發達欣尉之外，還要告慰無數為廚行委屈終生的前輩們，搞明白了這樣的一個忠告，才能清楚廚行的事廚者決非只是單純的燒菜煮飯，而是真正感悟人生五味的調合才是每個川廚入門必修的一門學問。

"Advice-kitchen" learned first series of self-cultivation

WANG Shi Rong
In mid-March 2006, China, "Sichuan" in Chengdu Journal magazine editor at the time, and the "Sichuan" magazine on modern kitchen political director for management of these, I chat with-on cooking with all aspects of industry, common understanding Chinese cooking, especially Sichuan industry and kitchen management and governance of the development of culinary skills, not just a cook cook technical problems, but contains from cooking food production to consumption of a learning process, both scientific and art , Is not only material but also the spirit, our ancestors in order to survive, transforming the objective world in the process of creating a culture of generosity, but now things are on the kitchen often casual Zuoxiang ancestors long The long river of history, through experiments and practice, screening, optimization by the accumulation of wealth, but turn a blind eye to Huimorushen, in the development of market economy has not yet past the Utah understandable, to date should not be silent again, the matter should be allowed to practitioners in the kitchen Dedication of the delicious cuisine at the same time, greater emphasis on self-improvement, both in production and be able to enjoy eating with the repair of the birth to healthy production, work, study and life.

Said this, Mr. Fu Gang testator entrusted to me as "Sichuan" Series Xiediandongxi In that case, I am happy to order from, agreed to "Sichuan" open-called "kitchen-advised" a small column, Qian Ziwen, Flu and sent letters to a pen to write, one will see this heading Meng Ranjian people felt "surprised" how the » "Advice-kitchen"-a chef who move Shuire » It was also how she bites tongue Gansha » Or self-righteous and Xingyaozuoguai, Sichuan cooking is not a cook shouted to give people on earth? » In fact, not Indeed, cooking Looking at the altar inside and outside advice statement there, but now some of the "master, a teacher who did not agree it." Today "advice" With its non-accidental and is inevitable, kitchen sector Known, learned to cook as three points: First, as a culinary knowledge, their learning delighted to learn of the technical performance of the stove when cooking and sharing of Zhiaiqinpeng is repeated scrutiny, sincerity and arguments set Psychological, it is a realm, as a culinary enjoyment, such Wuwai Hu Liufangbaishi the Wenrenmoke, Merry Ruya of disabilities, like several famous Chinese author, can the world 100-Yao in the all-encompassing January 1 embellishment Between paragraphs, that "the world to write the exception of fresh human article" a big, fine with the Chinese through the ages to the soul into a thick inside, but claim the other study skills, support their families, the chef who said things were , The teachers do their disciples to do their own coolies, Jan division generation of fame, to enhance its own plane, this system is by fishing boat, another is a sector with non-stick side of the kitchen, those idle rich Town , To subsistence livelihood for that too many cooks do not need the knowledge and skills, with the courage to even dare to dirty the crown of gourmet, offer a disk, the time for a "quack" prevalence of the world, What is more Said: "Baishi HKADC pull scenes, the division will not only remain mixed," said White is used as a division of fame, for their own shoring facade also find a good map errand. Germany is the art of its variety, this will fundamentally a low-long-chef for the survival of their gold content of the market, the deepest feelings of their own kitchen-or the situation, with the same technology market was the lack of comparison to other cuisine The harmonization of norms of the market dynamic, first paid no attention to "the world such as small cooked fresh," it simply the word, creating the revitalization of Brand-kitchen-come first-served awakening chef de cuisine, not only upgrade skills, and spiritual needs of kitchen Germany, it is imperative that with the market screening, to be based from the start with, this matter is as essential to their kitchen to kitchen to self-cultivation, and the real chef who not only language but also to be used carefully Their situation to complete any of the beautiful dishes described, in recent years, talking about the catering industry within and outside the culture more and more, has also set up a wide range of research will be like, as an academic study, this, I think that deep Wei, Yi Utah 30 years ago, I followed as the father of one party chefs, chef at the outskirts of Chengdu Huayang a farm, his father Chef when I start, as was the object of that time, his father often As Niuguisheshen to criticized and denounced, is one of incrimination has been a well-known Zou Zipai private kitchen, and criticized and denounced Renru to accept the end of hope can be better comment to the rebels to their cooking, At that time my father often Fuzhao head repeatedly told, will do what is the other line cooks dry, but each time his father Renru for rebels who cook up the dishes are all highlights, Silk Bugou This Daorang adult years I shall understand that this may be the chef de bar, it is Yidebaoyuan » Then, I really want to shake off family skills, dry point level, but overall I also can not cook to Wang Qing, the more its people despise and Bufen, who cooks for the next Jiu Liu said the people they do not know, the next Jiuliu What is not in all cooks, and why the system's contribution to cuisine, but also the people can not afford to do SUI » I have suffered, Huang deep sense of business after I had promised a wish, I should not only serve the kitchen line, but also for the kitchen to the development and feel proud and elated, such as cooking guide me on it and make contribution to the cause of their fathers Hard work, in addition to the cause of prosperity Yan Wei, also comfort for the kitchen to numerous grievances life predecessors, that engage in this kind of a warning to clear the kitchen to cook things are by no means purely Shaocai Cook, but the real sentiment of the blending of life Wuwei is required for each entry-chef of a scholarship.